Chanterelle Season at The Inn at Kristofer's

Early evening sun cast golden rays across Sister Bay, Door County, Wis., as we arrived for dinner at the The Inn at Kristofer's. Dark wood, linen and more stunning views of the water awaited us. As we ordered wine and perused the menu Executive Chef, Terri Milligan, proudly displayed a small tray of plump, fresh chanterelle mushrooms. Another chef had retrieved them during the brief summer growing season the area is sometimes blessed with - and sometimes not. Each spring, he also forages for morels and ramps.


On this evening the kitchen had used chanterelles in a dish made with fresh-caught whitefish, and a crepe with asparagus. Terri says these mushrooms have a softer flavor than morels do, and subtle mushroom flavor interspersed with bright green al dente asparagus in this delicate wrap. Other members of our party ordered Certified Angus Filet Mignon, Veal Napoleon with Wild Mushrooms and Risotto, and Rack of New Zealand Lamb.

We spent several hours at the table. As shadows lengthened and the moon sent silvery light dancing along the water's surface, we savored more wine, and coffee, paired with cheesecake, apple tatin and a thoroughly decadent Triple Chocolate Mousse Tower. Only a soft pillow and a comfortable mattress could make the evening any better.