American River Walk - European Feel

On a warm, muggy day in May, I walked with several friends on San Antonio's renowned River Walk. We had taken a boat tour along the River Walk on the previous morning and shared lunch within view of a mariachi band, at a restaurant across the water. But our walk offered a totally different view of this renowned waterway; much of it quieter and more contemplative.

Brilliant bougainvillea overhung sidewalks and Spanish-tiled stairs, which led from riverside to streetside. As we walked we appreciated hand-painted tiles at the Old Mill Crossing - Last Known Place Where Horses Drank and Forded the River - Erected by the Daughters of Texas Trail Drivers. We admired ornate iron work depicting two hands and a cross and commemorating the first mass celebrated in San Antonio, on June 13, 1691.

We rounded a gentle curve and I was momentarily transported to another world. Just ahead, a driver in a straw hat navigated a tour boat beneath an ivy-covered, arched footbridge. White-painted adobe and red tile roofs at one end of the bridge resembled a quaint European village. Only after we walked several more blocks did we return to the hustle and bustle of modern shops and restaurants, and I missed the quieter, gentler River Walk.

San Antonio River Run

San Antonio offered a warm, muggy morning when we arrived at the River Walk and boarded a boat for a tour on the water. White linen tablecloths and napkins greeted us as we sat down to breakfast hors d'oeuvres, piping hot coffee and mimosas. A waitress from the adjacent Zuni Grill distributed menus. "We'll serve breakfast when you circle back around," she said.

Our driver, in a dapper white straw hat, piloted us along the water and regaled us with tales of San Antonio's rich multi-cultural history. We passed a metal sculpture and plaque that celebrated the first mass held in San Antonio, in 1691, and a double-tier stone bell tower built during the city's 'mission' period, in the 1700s. An ivy-covered foot bridge and adjacent Spanish-style stucco building with red tile roof resembled a European village.

We pulled in beside Zuni Grill and gasped as enormous plates of food arrived. My chilaquiles plate paired fresh eggs, cheese, corn tortillas and green chile sauce with a small bowl of fresh melon, and hand-cut grilled potatoes. Another mimosa, a coffee refill, and we were off again. As the sun poked through gray clouds, passengers on other boats looked longingly towards our breakfast feast and we turned our attention to the now-bustling River Walk.